ROMANIA | Brasov & Viscri

If you only had time to visit one city and use it as a homebase to explore some of Transylvania’s most popular sites, make it Brasov (bra-shov). From Brasov we also took day trips to see Viscri, Bran Castle, Rupea Fortress and Rasnov Fortress and Peles Castle on the way to Bucharest.

Wander

Without a doubt one of my favorite ways to enjoy these old cities is to simply wander. The Piata Sfatului or Council Square has been the large central market square since 1364 and is lined with places to eat and drink. I was there in June and the weather was perfect for grabbing a drink and people-watching. The 15th-century Council House, now the Brasov County Museum of History, stands in the middle of the square, and the 14th-century Black Church is located just off the square.

The Black Church

Built in the 14th-century, the Black Church, is the largest Gothic church in Romania, accommodating up to 5,000 people inside. Its name is supposedly derived from damage caused by the Great Fire of 1689 when flames and smoke blackened its walls. The well-kept interior is impressive, with a 17th-century pulpit, a 15th-century altar, and one of the largest organs in Eastern Europe, with over 4,000 pipes. It’s also home to the largest collection of Islamic prayer rugs outside of the Topkapi Palace Museum in Istanbul.

The interior also says a lot about the patrons. Seating closest to the alter was organized by guild. Everything represents a story, and it helps to have a guide to explain it to you. At the back of the church there’s an impressive collection of items telling the story of the Great Fire, tombstones and a crypt.

String Street

String Street, Strada Sforii, is reputed to be the narrowest in Europe at only 1.2 meters (4 feet) wide, although France, Germany, and England all have similar streets. It was used as a corridor for firemen on duty and is now a fun place to snap photos. The street is not too far from the Black Church.

Catherine’s Gate

This medieval gate, Poarta Ecaterinei, was built by the Tailors’ Guild in 1559 and is the only part of the medieval gates still standing. It was named after St. Catherine’s monastery, which used to be located nearby and was the only entrance to the city that citizens were allowed to use in the Middle Ages. In recent years, it’s become an unofficial symbol of this once fortified city.

Take the Cable Car up Tampa Mountain

Towering above Brasov, this mountain offers sweeping views the city. The mountain also has a large BRASOV sign similar to the white Hollywood sign in Los Angeles. You can climb the mountain although we did not see a clearly marked path, and you need to be aware that wild animals including bear, lynx and vipers live here. We opted to buy the roundtrip ticket to ride the cable car to the summit and explore the lookouts.

Shopping/Eating/Drinking: Luado Chocolate [Poarta Schei #2], La Ceaun restaurant, Juno Wine Garden

Lodging: We spent two nights at UpperHouse Suites & More [Petofi Sandor] it’s about a five-minute walk to the city’s central square, but it’s a beautiful and well-appointed new hotel with a view. Rooms include a wonderful breakfast.

Viscri

This charming village in the countryside with its lush grasslands and abundant flora and fauna remains essentially unchanged for hundreds of years. Tourists come here to see the Fortified Church in Viscri, another World Heritage Site. The village’s recent rise in notoriety stems from King Charles of England’s purchase of a house here in 2007.