Croatia, Istria & Beyond

…continued from CROATIA | 4 Friends in Split & Beyond

Day 5 | Heading North by Northeast

We picked up our rental car in Split and headed northeast toward Paklenica National Park. We planned a hike that day and found fine food and rest at the lovely home of Visnja and Davorien, full-time residents of Zagreb, who run a guest house in the summer months called Teslas House. Named for the one and only Nicolai Tesla, who was born just down the road, their home is ideal for visitors, with a sauna and hot tub hut. Visnja cooked a wonderful homemade dinner, one of the most delicious of our entire trip.

DAY 6 | Onward to Istria, Pula

The next morning, we headed to Plitvice Lake National Park for light hiking in the forest combined with easy boardwalk-style walking paths and a leisurely boat ride. Founded in 1949, it is one of the oldest and largest national parks in Croatia. Known for its picturesque lakes and waterfalls are gorgeous and it’s one of the few places to see tufa limestone formations.

We continued on to Pula, the most populous town on the famed Istrian Peninsula, staying at the Arena Campsites, where we had our own mobile-style villa on the water. Although most of Istria lies in Croatia, it is shared with Italy and Slovenia. Over the centuries it has been under the rule of many empires, but its name comes from the first inhabitants, the Histri people. Today it is well known for its olive oil, wine, and truffles.

We ventured into town for a tasty fast casual meal at Street Food Two [Veronska Ulica 2a] and then to see the incredible Pula Amphitheatre by night. Constructed between 27 BC and 68 AD, it is one of only six surviving Roman arenas and the only one to have all four towers entirely intact. Although it is Croatia’s best-preserved ancient monument, it has none of the UNESCO regulations for its use. Therefore, it hosts events throughout the year and is an especially fabulous music venue for its amazing acoustics.

It turned out to be a serendipitous moment when we heard music and followed our ears. There were people all over the streets, drinking wine and hanging out listening to the music being played inside the Amphitheatre. We learned this is common because the walls are open. We were immediately transported back to the 1980s when we heard the first few bars of “Holding Back the Years.” It was Simply Red in there!

[PRO TIP: Once you know when you’ll be in Pula, check the events schedule at the Amphitheatre and get tickets in advance. Next time, I’ll definitely be sitting inside enjoying the show!]

DAY 7 | Istria, Pula to Rovinj

The following morning, while the girls kayaked, I opted for a guided walking tour of Pula. I booked it the night before on Viator. It was just me and one other couple and it was a terrific way to see more of Pula’s sites and history.

[PRO TIP: Park at Karolina, near the amphitheater, right off of Riva, along the water. My guide owns his own company, Istria Tours, so you can also book direct.]