Global Staci

After a week volunteering in construction with San Lucas Mission in San Lucas Tolimán, the entire team headed to Antigua for one night, and my friend and I spent an additional two, enjoying some much-appreciated R&R before returning home. Antigua (the city not the country LOL) is a charming old Spanish colonial town, with lots to offer travelers—from great food and craft beer to artisan chocolate and coffee, from museums to lovely and affordable accommodations, from hiking and luxury spa services.

[PRO TIP: You’ll need to complete a Digital Arrival Card online prior to arriving, and departing, Guatemala. It’s free.]

Located in Guatemala’s central highlands, just over 5,000 feet above sea level, making for comfortable year-round weather, specifically hiking—to get bird’s eye views of the volcanos. The city is surrounded by them. In fact, you can orient yourself using Volcán de Agua which lies to the south and the famous Santa Catalina Arch to the north. Volcán de Pacaya and Volcán de Acatenango, the common overnight hike, offers to best views of its neighbor, Volcán de Fuego, one of Central America’s most active volcanoes, frequently erupting. You can find loads of tours online, and aroud town, to take you there.

[PRO TIP: Guatemala is a great place to learn Spanish, and there are many language immersion programs to choose from. Because Spanish is a second language to many Guatemalans, who speak their indigenous language first, the tend to annunciate and speak Spanish more slowly, a great thing for learners.]

STAY

This hotel looks amazing! If I could do it over again, I’d stay here. Hotel Meson de María [3a Calle Poniente #8, Antigua] located in a finely restored mansion in the heart of Antigua, and a couple doors down from my favorite cocktail bar and rooftop in the city (see below). The hotel itself has a beautiful rooftop terrace with stunning views of the volcanoes and surrounding valley.

SITES

I love a walking tour, and you can find free ones as well as paid tours online using GetYourGuide or GuruWalk. We booked Chef David Farfan’s 1.5 hours walking tour. It was excellent. Next time, I’d happily book his cooking class.

David is a local, yet internationally trained chef, and his historical tour comes with plenty of personal stories of his family and the city he clearly adores. It’s a quick pace, but we loved the fact that the tour was short and sweet. David begins with a history lesson at the Casa Hotel Santo Domingo, a former 16th-century monastery turned museum and luxury hotel.

On the main central square you’ll see City Hall, the Siren Fountain (modeled on Neptune’s Fountain in Bologna, Italy) San José Cathedral and the Royal Palace. The much-photographed Arch of Santa Catalina is near Nim Pot Craft Market, which I would skip and go to the Mercado de Artesanías Compañía de Jesús [4a Calle Poniente Final] instead. It’s a much better experience shopping for local handicrafts; bartering is expected. David also whizzed us through the Jade Museum (more below) and more. Our walking tour ended with a visit to Central Market, the totally amazing indoor/outdoor food (and everything under the sun) market in Antigua.

[PRO TIP: Wear footwear that will allow you to most easily navigate cobblestoned streets and narrow sidewalks.]

Northern anchor to the city Iglesia de la Merced, officially The Church and Convent of La Merced, is surly one of the prettiest Baroque churches in all of Latin America. For a small fee you can tour the inside and visit the rooftop, offering unforgettable views of the city and surrounding volcanoes.

You can also tour Convento Santa Teresa de Jesús [1a. Oriente Street, between 3a. Avenida Norte and 4a. Avenida Norte]. Originally a convent for Carmelite nuns (completed in 1677), it has also been used as a winery, coffee drying patio and men’s prison. Interesting to learn what would have motivated a young woman to become a nun in colonial-era Latin America.

Absolutely don’t miss at least a walkthrough of the local Starbucks and, believe it or not, McDonald’s. They are gorgeous and worth noticing.

SHOPS

There are many unique boutiques in Antigua selling everything from religious art to small batch chocolate bars and personal care products. BTW Makenna [3era calle y 4a ave. Norte, casa 7, Antigua] sells gorgeous ones! Also check out Artesanias Quetzali [4ta Calle Oriente #3] and organic coffee shop Meso Cafe [3ra. Aveninda North No. 1C] which also sells some locally made jewelry, bags and clothing.

We learned that Guatemala is ground zero for jade, and there are shops and market stalls selling it everywhere. I also learned the stunning array of colors that jade comes in—from milky white, to lavender to black. If you plan to buy, I recommend going with a large reputable showroom like Casa del Jade [4ta Calle Oriente No.10, El Jaulon Building] or Jade Maya Showroom, Museum and Factory [4 Calle Oriente, #34, Antigua].

In the Jade Maya Museum, you’ll learn that founders Mary Lou and Jay Ridinger came to Guatemala in 1974 interested in archeology, specifically wondering what became of the ancient sources of jade that had been used by the Mayas and six other ancient civilizations for three thousand years? After rediscovering the sources locally, they built a factory and trained descendants of the Mayas to carve things to sell, thereby reestablishing the industry in Guatemala and preserving the tradition.

The best place to go to buy chocolate products is Fernando’s Kaffee [Avenida Norte y Callejon Camposeco 7]. Eponymous owner Fernando is unique in the area, which we learned from Chef David on our walking tour. “This guy,” as David referred to him, “gets his beans only from local growers, and makes the chocolate products on site.”

I can attest; the chocolate is excellent. In particular, try the cocoa nibs. No ordinary nibs, these are out of this world toasty, almost nutty with a deep chocolate aftertaste. Completely natural. Fernando also offers tours and workshops. The cafe also serves breakfast and lunch.

[PRO TIP: Uber is useful in and around Antigua, and for getting to and from the airport.]

EATS & DRINKS

Great food and libations abound here. A solid lunch option, since 1978 is Dona Luisa [4ta. Calle Oriente # 12]. I first tried an avocado cheese sandwich here in 1994 and fell in love with it long before “avo toast” became a thing. Consider taking home a loaf of their famous banana or orange chocolate bread.

Just down the street is Doña María Gordillo Dulces Típicos. Serving up traditional Guatemalan sweets since 1872, it is Antigua’s oldest sweets shop [4a Calle Oriente 11]. BTW, you may have seen this on Somebody Feed Phil, Guatemala.

Again, as per Chef David, Doña María the woman who started it all and friend of his grandmother, decided to collect sweets from all over Guatemala highlighting the uniqueness of each area within the country, and bring them here to sell all under one roof. Brilliant and delicious.

Definitely worth the short trip to the outskirts of the city is organic farm to table restaurant Caoba Farms [5a. Avenida Sur Final #6] only open until 5pm. We went for lunch and to check out the operation. Bonus that FIFA World Cup matches were easily enjoyed from the giant TV in the outdoor bar area. This place is amazing!

Rooftop bars and restaurants are popular, well, because when the weather is nice, which it almost always is, there’s quite a view from almost anywhere in Antigua. We tried Cafe Sky Bar and Aqua Antigua, but HANDS DOWN, our favorite was Antigua Brewing Company. The view, the vibe, the DJ and the craft beer are excellent. Tasty food too.

If you have time, I recommend checking out Antigua Cerveza El Bosque (Antigua Cerveza Forest) a bit like a mini Central Park [Avenida el Desengaño #2] and Café No Sé  [1a Avenida Sur] for late night mezcal and live music.

Had to save the BEST for last.

If you only have time and interest in one cocktail in Antigua, head straight to Ulew Cocktail Bar [3^rd West House #4] by entering Antigua Brewing Company and hanging a hard left into phone booth. Behind the black curtain is a super cool speakeasy cocktail cave. No code. No pretension. No menu. The theater is a superb as the cocktail.

Ulew means Mother Earth in the Kʼicheʼ Mayan language. Created in the moment based on each customer’s personal preferences, the mixologist has at his fingertips exotic yet natural ingredients.

—The flavor of pineapple foam? Yes, please.

—The aroma of smoking eucalyptus warming local spirts (both literal and figurative)? Bring it.

—The site of a star-shaped base lighting up my drinking experience? Yes way.

—The idea of an ancient recipe, presented in a Harry Potter-like book of spells, seeking my signature? Yep, that happened.

The unique making and presentation of each individual cocktail evoke a sense of magic and awe that’s not often experienced in life. Maybe it IS magic. Either way, Mother Earth would be proud.

Ulew’s stated goal is to elevate cocktail culture in Antigua. They’re nailing it.