BULGARIA | Part 2 of Stealable 10-Day Itinerary (Melnik)

[This post is part of a 10-day driving itinerary for Sofia, Melnik, Plovdiv, and Veliko Taranovo.]

DAYS 1-3 | SOFIA

DAY 4 | RILA MONASTERY TO MELNIK

A must-see on the way to Melnik is the largest and most famous Eastern Orthodox monastery in Bulgaria, founded in the early 10th century, by St. Ivan. Rila Monastery, also a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is considered one of Bulgaria’s holiest sites, and is frequently visited by Bulgarians. Monks still live here and services are still held. Nearly a million pilgrims and tourists visit each year.

This architectural masterpiece played an essential role in Bulgarian cultural preservation throughout the Middle Ages. Twice it was destroyed, most recently rebuilt in 1862, the church, its frescoes, and icons were exquisitely restored. The Belltower is the only surviving original building.

Don’t miss the Ecclesiastical and Historical Museum, where you’ll want to see the utterly amazing wooden Cross of Monk Raphael, which took him 12 years to carve. The detail is exquisite; you are not allowed to take photos in the museum. You can also tour the monks’ quarters, the Belltower, and the original kitchen.

After our visit, we ate a delicious lunch by the Rilska River at the family-run hotel restaurant, Gorski Kut. Try a local Pirinsko beer, named for the mountain.

MELNIK

I’d had read about Melnik, Bulgaria’s smallest town in its southwest corner, just a few miles from the Greek border. It’s known for its Earth Pyramids, huge sandstone rocks that have been shaped over the centuries by rain and erosion, and for its wine, with vineyards lining the gorgeous Pirin mountain slopes. Something about it charmed me, so although it doesn’t see a lot of foreign tourists, we added it to the itinerary.

As dusk approached on our way into Melnik, we popped into the fabulous Villa Melnik Winery for a tour and tasting. It was perfect. Turns out, our favorite hotel of the trip, Manoleva House, was perched at the top of town with a fabulous view of the valley and sandstone pyramids. Worth the climb.

We recommend Chavkova House Restaurant, right on the main drag (Melnik Street 112), for dinner.

DAY 5 | ROZHEN MONASTERY & MORE WINE

After a fabulous breakfast at Manoleva House, we drove to Rozhen Monastery, first built in 1217. Its most significant building, the Nativity of the Virgin Church, contains stained-glass windows, 200-year-old murals, woodcarvings, and iconostases, with the icon of the Virgin its main focus for pilgrims. Believers say the icon was painted by St. Luke, and that it miraculously survived being hurled into the sea.

[PRO TIP: Rozhen Monastery attracts fewer tourists than other monasteries in Bulgaria, so dress modestly, don’t take photographs, and keep chatter to a whisper.]

YOU MIGHT BE WONDERING, all of the churches and monasteries we visited, with rare exception, are still active places of worship, inhabited by clergy.

[PRO TIP: We learned that you can walk to the monastery, a popular pilgrimage among locals, right from the center of Melnik.]

That afternoon we visited Kordopulov’s House, the largest house in Bulgaria from the National Revival period, mid-18th century, now a museum and lively wine bar. We enjoyed our wine tasting right at Manoleva House, conveniently next door. The hospitality we enjoyed in all of Bulgaria is noteworthy. Everyone is friendly, talkative, and willing to share their culture.