continued from CROATIA | 4 Friends in Rovinj & Beyond
DAY 10 | Škocjan Caves, Slovenia
We left Rovinj, Croatia crossing the border to Slovenia to visit the otherworldly Škocjan Caves. Both Croatia and Slovenia are part of the Schengen Area making driving between them easy. Countries that make up the Schengen Area have officially abolished border controls at their mutual borders, functioning as a single jurisdiction under a common visa policy for international travel.
A spectacular cave system uniquely formed by the underground Reka River, Škocjan is the largest discovered underground cavern in all of Europe and one of the biggest in the world. The systematic exploration of the caves began in the 19th century but references to its location date back to the 1st century BC in Homer’s epic poem The Odyssey. You are not allowed to photograph the caves, so you have to take my word for it—GO!
Next Stop: Bled
Our guide would be picking us up the next morning at our hotel, Old Parish House. We were able to leave our car parked here for the next few days, while we hiked hut to hut in the amazing Julian Alps.
[PRO TIP: If you need to rent a backpack since you’ll be carrying all your gear, try local outfitter Altitude Activities but reserve them in advance.]
Old Cellar Bled is a centuries-old restaurant that serves delicious Slovenian dishes and wine. The service is uber-friendly and the food is prepared with love and local ingredients. Reservations recommended.
DAYS 11-12 | Julian Alps Hut to Hut Hike
What an amazing experience! We booked this through SLOTRIPS, a small local company. These guys (and gals) love, live, and breathe Slovenia and they know the landscape like the backs of their hands. We absolutely loved them.
[PRO TIP: Other global tour outfitters use local companies like this one in their itineraries. You can save loads of money if book direct and then plan the rest of your itinerary yourself, as we did.]
The 3-day hut-to-hut adventure took us through the heart of the Julian Alps, with all the exceptionally beautiful mountain scenery you’d expect. If you are not at least fit and determined to see something amazing, this is not the hike for you. It’s at times challenging and the altitude will wind you. I opted not to use poles, but they would’ve helped a few times on the downhill.
We saw lovely alpine pastures, glaciers, climbed a few peaks, saw Mt. Triglav (the highest mountain in Slovenia), crossed a saddle or two, met local shepherds and tasted their homemade cheese and meats, and slept in traditional mountain huts. The two huts we stayed in couldn’t have been more different, one like a hostel and the other a small local home, but they both had fresh, cool mountain water, local beer, and hot and hearty food. We also befriended the other ladies in our group, forming a supportive family for a few days.
Our hike ended at lovely Lake Bohinj. Legs wobbly having just come down the mountain, we made our way into town, crossed Bohinj Bridge, and savored a seat and a restaurant meal before heading back to Bled to stay at Old Parish House again for two nights.
If you’re tuckered out, Pizzeria Rustica, near the hotel is a great place for dinner. The Park Hotel, right on the water, may not have the best Bled Cream Cake, but they do have a lovely view of Bled Castle and the lake.
DAY 13 | Exploring Bled
The one thing I really wanted to do here was take the ferry to the middle of Lake Bled, to the fairy-tale-like tear-shaped Bled Island, Slovenia’s only island. We went in the morning since, as the island is quite small, we shared it with fewer people. We bought a ticket to explore the Church of Mary the Queen, also known as Our Lady of the Lake, and rang the bell of wishes, happening since 1534. We also saw the clock tower, enjoyed the grounds and especially the museum. There’s also a café, gift shop, and nice restrooms.
[PRO TIP: You can ride the gondolas, rent your own rowboat, or take the ferry as we did which has regular departures to and from. Just show up at the boat house and buy a ticket in advance of the time you’d like to depart. You can even swim there, however, you’ll need to have dry clothes to enter the church.]
Pick up a bite to eat before or after the ferry ride at Market by the Lake.
Next Stop: Bled Castle
If you stay at Old Parish House you’ll have fewer steps to climb to get to Bled Castle atop the hill overlooking the lake. The castle is now a museum representing its 1,000-year history and that of the area.
[PRO TIP: If you have a car and are not up for the hike, you can drive to the Castle entrance, but will still have to climb a few sets of stairs to see everything inside. Sometimes there are free public events outside, like live music. Check the schedule.]
We loved Public and Vegan Kitchen Bled serving delicious plant-based burgers, salads, and desserts and a great range of gluten-free food. It’s so good you won’t miss the meat or dairy!
DAY 14 | Lovely Ljubljana
The biggest surprise of this trip was Ljubljana, Slovenia’s capital city. It’s nothing short of fairy-tale wonderful, almost like walking around in a Disney theme park, only real! We knew next to nothing before we arrived, but were able to figure out a plan to see a lot spontaneously. We stayed at Hotel Heritage; whatever hotel you choose I recommend staying in the pedestrian zone of the city center. We dropped off the rental car and then walked a short distance into the city center to the hotel.
Every Friday all day (what luck our one day here was Friday!) in the Spring and Summer the city hosts Open Kitchen (or ‘Odprta Kuhna’ in Slovenian) in Ljubljana’s Pogačarjev Square. Food and drink vendors from the city and across Slovenia come together to showcase their tasty treats. We saw cuisine from many ethnicities, everything from truffle pasta to paella, tacos to grilled meats, to pastries, and vegan food. There is also a traditional market with produce and local handicrafts. This was THE highlight of our visit.
Next stop: Ljubljana Castle complex atop Castle Hill
Archeological evidence suggests the area occupied by the current castle has been settled continuously since 1200 BC. A medieval fortress was most likely constructed in the 11th century, rebuilt in the 12th and again overhauled in the 15th century. The majority of the buildings were added in the 16th and 17th centuries but since the early 19th century used for other purposes, and now a major cultural venue. Many rooms have been renovated to preserve the stories of the past and host those of the present.
[PRO TIP: You can take the walking path to the top or ride the cable car. Meet Friderik the castle rat! Keep your eyes peeled for Ljubo the Dragon, the city mascot. The castle, as well as a dragon, are depicted on the city’s coat of arms.]
We learned about Patrón Tacos & Bar [Gornji Trg. 23] from hikers in the Alps and were glad we ventured across the river to the other side of the city, enjoying the walk along with way. By now we knew what a lively, international food scene this city has so it was no surprise that this is a place owned by locals from Mexico.
DAY 15 | Departure Day
So sad to leave this remarkable country with love in its name. Indeed, we did feel Slovenia. Cheers to many happy returns!
[PRO TIP: Your hotel may be able to help arrange airport transfers. Otherwise, you can use local cabs, shuttle bus, or private drivers, but there are no ride-sharing apps like Lyft or Uber.]
The words of the poem “Zdravljica” (“A Toast”) by France Prešeren, considered to be the greatest Slovene classical poet in 1848, ring true today. In 1848 the poem encapsulated the spirit of revolution to unite Slovenia, and in 1991 became the national anthem upon independence from Yugoslavia.
God’s blessing on all nations
Who long and work for that bright day
When o’er earth’s habitations
No war, no strife shall hold its sway
Who long to see
That all men free
No more shall foes, but neighbors be!
Who long to see
That all men free
No more shall foes, but neighbors,
No more shall foes, but neighbors be!
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