One of eight islands that make up America’s 50th state, Hawai’i is the largest and therefore nicknamed The Big Island. It is also the youngest in the archipelago, and one of the least populated. It’s amazing anything grows at all in the hard volcanic rock that you might mistake for rich soil. This also keeps development at bay, thus maintaining the character of this unspoiled paradise. Black, white and even green sand beaches await, but please leave all that sand right where it is, along with lava rock. It’s illegal to take it off the island, and besides, legend says you’ll be cursed if you do.
[PRO TIP: Consider taking the Pono Pledge to keep Hawaii, and yourself, safe.]
The reason for my trip? I told my niece, “When you graduate, I’ll take you on a trip.” I don’t know why I was surprised when she told me she wanted to go to Hawaii! Who doesn’t want to go? Being from the east coast of the US, it’s an oft dreamed of vacation for families and honeymooners alike.
As luck would have it, I have a friend who grew up on Oahu and who visits Hawaii every year for at least the month of January (whale watching season). She helped me plan this trip and, on the ground, she generously shared her love and knowledge of all that is “Aloha.” Here’s our 9-day itinerary, a counterclockwise route around the island, designed to give first time visitors a taste of what the Big Island has to offer.
Days 1-4 | KONA—Snorkel & Swim
Our flight landed about 4pm and it was straight to Pine Tree Cafe [73-4040 Hulikoa Drive] for fish and chips to go, to sit on the beach with our feet in the sand and watch the sunset. Ahhhh, heaven. We picked up provision at a KTA Super Store, then settled in at our Airbnb right on Ali’i Drive. Another local spot for great casual eats is L&L Hawaiian BBQ (try the lau lau).
[PRO TIP: You’ll need to rent a vehicle for this trip, and I recommend you get a truck or tough SUV for any off roading you may want to do. Keep your stuff locked in the cab, preferably out of view so as not to attract unwelcome trouble, even in Hawaii.]
First stop the next morning, Snorkel Bob’s (which conveniently offers free inter-island returns in case you visit others). With masks and fins in hand, we set out to enjoy some of the many free places to get into the ocean! Two of our favorites were, Two Steps (adjacent to Pu’uhonua O Honaunau National Historic Park aka Place of Refuge) and Kealakekua Bay a pristine reef accessed by guided tour only (highlighted below).
[PRO TIP: Pick up a map at Snorkel Bob’s highlighting the snorkel spots on the island or read about them on their website. Above all, always get in the water with caution!]
Puʻuhonua o Hōnaunau National Historical Park preserves the site where, up until the early 19th century, Hawaiians who broke kapu, the ancient laws, could escape punishment. It’s an interesting place to wander and learn about Hawaiian culture.
It’s worth booking a guided kayak and snorkel tour to get to the Captain Cook Monument and the Kaelakekua Bay to snorkel its amazing reef. I recommend Big Island Kayak. In your tandem kayak, you’ll paddle across the bay for about half an hour before going ashore to put on your snorkel gear and get into the water. We were treated to a surprise humpback whale sighting, a mother and calf!
You’ll work up an appetite; I recommend the excellent Honaunau Poke [83-5308A Mamalahoa Hwy, next to Jake BBQ, Captain Cook]. Poke just might be the most popular Hawaiian food, so give it a try!
[PRO TIP: You’ll walk over a lot of lava, so I recommend a hard soled shoe. There are two different types of lava on the island, pāhoehoe (pay hoey hoey) with a billowy surface and ‘a’ā (ah ah), the surface of which can be sharp.]
EATING/DRINKING IN KONA: I recommend Jackie Reys, Magics Beach Grill (make a reservation for dinner at sunset) and right in town the Scandanvian Shaved Ice!
Days 5-6 | VOLCANO—Fun & Fire!
On day four, we drove south stopping along way to Volcano National Park.
Stop #1: Punaluʻu for the beautiful, swimmable, palm tree lined black sand beach, and sea turtles, who are often sunning onshore. There are also lifeguards, restrooms, vendor and parking.
Stop #2: Punalu‘u Bake Shop and Visitor Center [95-5642 Mamalahoa Hwy.] The most visited bake shop in Hawaii, for Hawaiian sweet bread and don’t miss the malasadas, a delicious donut-like fried dough with fillings, brought over to Hawaii by Portuguese immigrants in the 1800s.
We rented a house for the night just a couple miles from the entrance to the national park. There was a storm brewing, so after a quick stop at the Hawaii Volcanoes National Park Visitor’s Center (in case you forgot one and need a rain poncho) we shopped for provisions at the KMC General Store, Kilauea Military Camp, particularly for firewood. It’s a bit colder at this elevation and our house had a wood burning stove. We had a super fun night by the fire, playing cards and singing karaoke on YouTube TV!
[PRO TIP: If you’ve got a blender, consider making your own pina colada! This is my recipe. We purchased everything at the grocery store, including small cans of pineapple juice and a can of creamed coconut. This recipe is for two, easily doubled. Just throw all ingredients into the blender and whiz!]
- 4 ounces rum
- 3 ounces pineapple juice
- 2 ounces coconut cream
- 1 ounce fresh lime juice (optional)
- Fresh pineapple (to blend in and/or use as a garnish)
- Ice
There are two active volcanoes on the island, both a part of the Hawaii Volcanoes National Park. Mauna Loa was last active in 1984 and Mauna Kilauea is currently active, so if you’re lucky you’ll see fresh lava flows and smoke rising from it. The best we saw were the steam vents because heavy rain and fog from a storm prevented us from enjoying the park. It’s worth having a look around and shop in the Volcano Art Center, showcasing terrific local artists.
I heartily recommend dining at the Thai Thai Bistro Bar on Old Volcano Road and lunch at Uncle George’s Lounge (amazing burgers) in The Volano House inside the national park.
Day 7 | HILO—Shop, Eat, Live Music
We stayed at the Hawaiian owned Hilo Reeds Bay Hotel. It’s not fancy, but clean and friendly and a great location. In town we reserved a table especially to see live Hawaiian music at Hilo Town Tavern, which was a real treat. Drink and nachos were on order while we enjoyed the main event—the music.
[PRO TIP: If you haven’t noticed by now, the Big Island is not the place for nightlife, so bring a deck of cards or another game of choice for late night make-your-own-fun entertainment!]
Richardson’s Ocean Park with its seawall following a rocky shoreline is nice to explore, either for a swim or a picnic. Check out the marine life by rocks or in the tide pools. And look for turtles! Also check out Angel Falls.
SHOPPING/EATING/DRINKING: Aloha Grown [224 Kamehameha Avenue] for awesome t-shirts and hospitality, Hulakai Surf Shop [284 Kamehameha Avenue], Hilo Town Tavern [168 Keawe Street, +1-808-935-2171] for drinks and live music (call ahead to reserve a table). If I had known, I would have made an reservation far in advance to have breakfast or lunch at Paul’s Place in Hilo [132 Punahoa Street, +1-808-280-8646]. Paul is a wonderful human, and the food at his six-seat restaurant, you read that right 6 seats, is in high demand.
Don’t miss the Big Island Candies flagship factory and shop [585 Hinano Street]. Designed in-house and never repeated, the packaging is almost as scrumptious as the products. A great souvenir for someone you love or just for YOU!
[PRO TIP: Hilo has a great farmers and handicrafts market, every day, not to be missed!]
Days 8-9 | HAPUNA—Resort Living & Boogie Boarding
We spent the last two nights of our trip on Hapuna Beach, having nearly circumnavigated the entire island. Hapuna Beach is a lovely long stretch of white sandy beach. If the surf is rough, you may not be able to swim but will have loads of fun fighting for a wave on a boogie board.
On the drive from Hilo we stopped at the Waipiʻo Valley lookout for a photo of the coastline. It’s also fun to stop and shop or have a nose around in Honoka’a and Waimea, for that old cowboy town feel. Believe it or not, Hawaii is known for its beef.
There are lots of places to look at petroglyphs on the island and I recommend you see them at least once. We saw them at Puako Park where there’s also a nice beach [1 N Kaniku Drive, Kamuela]. These lava rock carvings date back to 1200 AD. The meanings of the petroglyphs are unknown but may be records of significant events in the lives of the people who lived on the island centuries ago.
EATING/DRINKING: I recommend Lava Lava Beach Club (see website for seating details), Copper Bar at the Mauna Kea Resort (call for reservation; the Udon is spectacular!), Noa Noa a boutique specializing garments made from beautiful batik fabrics, made from natural rayon, silk, linen and handwoven cotton.
[FUN FACT: The Hawaiian flag is among the most unique in the US, with eight stripes representing the main islands although the red, white and blue colors have no official symbolism. It is the only US flag to feature a foreign country’s national flag—that of the UK’s Union Jack—which commemorates the Royal Navy’s historic relations with the Kingdom of Hawaii, and the pro-British sentiment of its founder and first ruler, King Kamehameha. If you happen to see the flag inverted, it may signify the Hawaiian sovereignty movement, a grassroots political campaign to reestablish Hawaii as an independent nation.]
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