Croatia, inspired backdrop for the award-winning Game of Thrones series, much like the fantasy television drama, is (almost) too good to be true. Every vista, worthy of a photograph. Welcoming people, rich culture, and natural beauty abound. Add to that the ease with which visitors can move throughout the county and region, and you have the perfect recipe for a holiday that is somehow both relaxing and invigorating.
This was an active girls’ getaway, but our itinerary would be enjoyable for couples or families with older children. We pre-booked all of our lodging and many of our activities when we were deciding where to go and what to do. This trip is just over two weeks and includes Slovenia. We also rented a car and had no trouble navigating with the use of apps on our cell phones. We chose to move around quite a bit to see as much as we could this first time. Pack light and live out of your suitcase!
[PRO TIP: June was the perfect month for this trip.]
Our trip outline:
CROATIA
Days 1-4 | Split
Day 5 | Paklaneka
Day 6 | Plitvice to Pula, Istria
Day 7-9 | Rovinj, Istria
SLOVENIA
Day 10 | Škocjan Caves to Bled, Slovenia
Days 11-12 | Julian Alps Hut-to-Hut Hike
Day 13 | Bled
Day 14 | Ljubljana
Day 15 | Departure
[PRO TIP: If you are not reasonably fit, able to climb loads of stairs, and walk on cobblestone streets, read no more. It would be impossible to enjoy anything we did in Croatia or Slovenia any other way. Bring stable, comfortable shoes.]
Day 1 | Arriving in Split
A short flight from Bucharest, I met my friends in Split. I highly recommend staying at the family-owned Makarun Heritage Rooms (breakfast included). They also helped book the airport transfer and met us on the Riviera to help us find the hotel.
That evening while I was awaiting the girls’ arrival, I climbed the steps to the Marjan Hill viewpoint, overlooking the harbor. Just ask someone to point you in the right direction and once you find the start of the walking trail, the rest will be simple. It’s a great workout!
I was delighted to find Pandora Greenbox [Obrov 4] a vegetarian vegan restaurant a short walk from the hotel. We ate gelato daily and loved Gelateria Amare [Unica Pavla Subica 1] the best!
[PRO TIP: Learn some basic Croatian greetings—hello, please, and thank you at a minimum. You may notice a lot of places called “stari grad” which simply means “old town.” Konoba is the word for tavern.]
Day 2 | Island Hopping
We booked a private speedboat tour to snorkel and swim in the Adriatic. You’ll want to visit the famous Blue Lagoon, but there are many beautiful places to get into the water.
Visiting at least a few of the islands of the Dalmatian coast is a must for any visit to Croatia. Trogir is not far from Split and is a handsome parade of Renaissance, Romanesque, and Baroque architecture, encircled by ancient fortifications. If you have time, climb to the top of the bell tower of the St. Lawrence Cathedral. Then head into the city center, wandering along any of the narrow pedestrian-only streets. We had the good fortune of hearing the most beautiful quartet of singers performing on the City Loggia. Constructed in the 13th century, the Loggia originally served as Trogir’s courtroom.
[PRO TIP: Watch out for cheap souvenirs from far-off lands, passing themselves off as coral or authentic gemstones. Trogir Experience [Budislaviceva 14] is a lovely shop that sells high-quality Croatian products @trogirexperience.]
If you happen to visit Komiza, the old fishing village of Vis, you may recognize it. Mama Mia 2 was filmed here. Our last stop was on Drvenik Veli island, where we enjoyed lunch at Konoba Kraknjasi.
[PRO TIP: Stock up on sparkling wine, or whatever you fancy, and bring it onto the boat with you! We noticed a well-stocked Studenac Market right off the boat in Trogir, our first stop. We could’ve saved quite a few euros if we’d known to stock up here instead of buying in Split!]
Day 3 | Hvar
The impeccably situated Split Marina is one of the oldest and largest (312 berths) on the Adriatic and it sits between the lovely seaside boulevard and city center and Split’s Marjan Peninsula, an oasis of beaches, parks, hiking and biking trails. We pre-booked our tickets on the Krilo Ferry to Hvar, where we’d meet our guide from Natural Hvar Tours. We booked a biking tour of the island, which I highly recommend. It was my favorite activity!
After biking and enjoying local wine and charcuterie, our guide took us by car to visit The Town Fortress, Grad Hvar Fortica, and then to Hvar Town. We hung out, ate, and drank at the lively Hula Hula Beach Bar on the water, and then walked back to the harbor to catch the ferry back to Split.
Day 4 | Exploring Split
I can’t say enough about the marvel that is Split. I would have been happy to stay much longer. Mario from Makarun House does a walking city tour for guests daily. Definitely go with him; he loves this city, and his family has been here for generations. He’s an excellent tour guide.
There’s a lot to see just by wandering including Diocletian’s Palace and its Basement Halls, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The ruins are found throughout the city. Roman emperor Diocletian was born in the province of Dalmatia and rose to power via military ranks. He constructed the Palace between 195 and 305 AD both as a fortress and luxurious residence, accommodating his military and servants as well. Don’t miss the basement and its ‘stinky’ history! Once I learned of the “Mason’s Marks” (see below) I became obsessed with finding them on the walls!
We ventured to Kašjuni Beach out on Marjan Peninsula to grab a drink and watch the sunset at Joe’s Beach Lounge and Bar [Šetalište Ivana Meštrovića 45B]. It’s more fun than fancy and was a nice way to end our time in Split.
We saved the best meal for last. There are many places to eat in Split, but the restaurant at Makarun is one of the best in the city. Committed to using local, best quality ingredients, some grown in their own garden, they are a member of the prestigious Chaîne des Rôtisseurs, International Association of Gastronomy. The service and food are beautiful.
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