Why not visit a city in the winter that embraces the cold?
A resounding YES! along with a desire to experience a festive holiday atmosphere in early December, led my husband and I to visit Europe without jumping across the pond. All-things-French Québec City was everything we hoped for and a few surprises. Here’s our seven-day itinerary for visiting at the most wonderful time of the year!
[PRO TIP: Although most people working in the tourism industry speak or at least understand English, if you do not speak French be prepared to use a translation app to help you when you need it.]
*With little exception, this is a walking itinerary.
Day 1 | Best Dinner Surprise!
From the Baltimore/Washington area of the USA there are no direct flights to Québec City. Using our layover in Toronto to our advantage, we reviewed our itinerary and made several restaurant reservations online. I highly recommend reservations if you know where you want to eat! Landing at Québec City Jean Lesage International Airport (YQB) we taxied to our first hotel, Auberge Saint-Antoine.
[PRO TIP: Taxis to and from the airport and the downtown area of the city are a flat rate, day $41.40 CDN, or night $47.60 CDN (11pm to 5am). Uber is usually cheaper, but if they are in high demand as they were when we landed, they may be more expensive. BEWARE: Our taxi driver tried to charge us for the metered rate which was higher than the flat rate, but when I refused he backed off. Don’t get ripped off!]
I chose Auberge Saint-Antoine in Old Québec’s lower town for two reasons: location and variety. Plus, it had a fireplace in the lobby and looked so darn cozy! Upon checking in, the concierge recommended a few places in the area where we were more likely to get a table without a reservation. One was Louise Taverne.
Hungry, we dropped our bags in our room with a view of the St. Lawrence and eagerly walked a couple of snowy blocks to the restaurant. Although it was only 5:30pm we were lucky to score two seats at the end of the bar. Giving the vibe of an upscale pub with thick stone walls, rich decor, and low lighting, holidaytime made it feel all the more special. Turns out, after we spied several suited men wearing earpieces, sitting at a large table of revelous patrons was François Legault, Premier of Quebec!
Feeling more special than we were, we savored every sip and bite.
Day 2 | Shop Til Ya Drop
After a fabulous late breakfast at Cochon Dingue, a short walk from our hotel, we walked up to one of the oldest and certainly most charming shopping streets in all of the province—postcard-perfect Petit-Champlain. Lined with one-of-a-kind boutiques and restaurants, the entire district stays illuminated all winter and feels particularly festive at twilight.
[PRO TIP: The Old Quebec Funicular links the upper and lower parts of the city. It’s $5 CDN a ride but only covers 64 meters, so it’s a short ride! When it’s particularly cold, windy or you just want to save a few steps, ride. Otherwise, we found walking between upper and lower town very enjoyable exercise.]
In the area is the site of the first French settlement in North America, Place Royale. The easy-to-find Notre-Dame-des-Victoires, the oldest church on the continent, marks the spot where Samuel de Champlain first arrived in “New France” in 1608. We chose to wander all afternoon on foot, coming across many historical sites, especially the noteworthy Basilica-Cathedral Notre-Dame de Québec.
As luck would have it, our visit to the Notre-Dame coincided with the last weekend to pass through its Holy Door. Holy Doors symbolize a passage between what we pilgrims leave behind and what we wish to move toward. One of only seven such doors in the world, and the only one outside Europe, the Holy Door of Québec City was a gift from the Holy See, Pope Benedict XVI, to celebrate the 350th anniversary the founding of the Notre-Dame de Québec parish by François de Laval.
Needing to get out of the cold, we popped into St. Alexandre Pub, nothing fancy just an English pub with great live music. Next door is the Murphy’s Irish Pub, which also hosts musical performers.
[PRO TIP: Consider picking up nosh from Paillard (four locations) artisinal bakery, maybe to have for breakfast or afternoon snack in your hotel room. Saves time and money!]
Day 3 | Died and Gone to Spa Heaven
Heavy snow blanketed the streets below our hotel room window. It was 22 degrees F and we were about 1.5 miles from our destination. A short Uber ride later, we checked into Strøm Nordic Spa, unplugging into the silence and hushed conversations between friends.
[PRO TIP: Score your timed entry online well in advance and make advanced appointments for additional services or treatments, of which there are many.]
Strøm is unlike any spa I’ve ever visited. You pay one price for a timed entry, but once you are in, you can stay as long as you like, much like the Blue Lagoon in Iceland. About 90% of what you can experience for the price of admission is outdoors. Hot and cold plunge pools, waterfalls, a lazy river, and hot dry saunas, even a salt scrub shower. Relax in an Adirondack chair by a wood-burning fire or fall into a gentle slumber in one of the many indoor relaxation rooms. There is a restaurant and gift shop—robes welcome.
[PRO TIP: Robes, towels, and a key to a locker are included, but you’ll need to wear some type of sandal or slipper at all times. Bring your own or purchase onsite. Water and hot tea are always available, recommended to bring your own bottle, but there are small paper cups.]
Toward the end of our four-hour visit, basking in the warmth of a heated pool and gazing at the icy river, snowflakes began to fall, as if on que. Despite the temperatures, we were never cold and had never felt better. It was magical, oddly, all the more so in the winter.
Blissed out from the spa and continuing our quest for wellness, that evening we feasted on veggies at the awesome Don Vegan. The cocktails and food at this family-run establishment are superb.
Day 4 | Pilgrams, Poutine, & And One Epic Performance
At the crack of 10am we had to be at our meeting point for our “Christmas Magic” walking tour with Cicérone Tours. I booked this just a few days earlier on our layover in Toronto. I’m a huge fan of walking tours, enjoying the company of a well-educated guide. I highly recommend them, as all the guides wear period dress from the 17th century and portray unique personas. It was cold and very windy, but we loved the tour.
As a bonus we were in the perfect spot at the tour’s close to chow down on a well-deserved poutine at the fabulous Le Chic Shack, also serving burgers, salads, shakes and their own craft sodas. Delish.
Unable to resist learning more about Quebec and its history, we briefly visited the Museum of Civilization, next to our hotel, and then grabbed our bags. Time for a nap in the monastery.
Ever since I learned of it in 2019 I wanted to stay at Le Monastère des Augustines, so we left the lower town and ventured up to the ramparts for the next three nights. I would happily return to Québec City if only to visit Strøm Nordic Spa and this hotel again.
Upon recommendation (thank you Facebook!) from my Aunt, we dined at the fabulous, and beautiful, Asian-fusion BŌ Cuisine d’Asie, to fuel up before our final curtain call…
As if we hadn’t jammed enough into this Friday, we scored the last two seats at Theatre Petit Champlain to see LOVEU2, a local cover band bearing striking resemblance and sound to the legendary rock band. It was bloody amazing!
Day 5 | Christmas On Steroids
Time to dedicate an afternoon to the city’s German Christmas Markets! These markets, spread throughout the city center, are a hive of activity for all ages, offering local food, drink, performances, and a variety of shops. All outside; warm up with hot cider! We attended the catholic mass at Notre-Dame as it was Advent the listened to live acoustic music at Murphy’s Irish Pub, one of the few places we didn’t need a reservation, as long as we were willing to wait.
Day 6 | The Taste of Local History
Mornings begin at the Le Monastère with Silent Breakfast, which is meant to encourage conscious or mindful eating, just as the sisters practiced over the nearly 400-year history of their cloistered life. Focusing intentionally on each bite of your food is beneficial for the mind-body.
[PRO TIP: Take the free guided walking tour of the monastery; you’ll gain such an appreciation for this institution! Other wellness services are booked separately, or purchased with a package when booking.]
Being Sunday, we chose to attend the Advent service at the Cathedral of the Holy Trinity, the first Anglican church built outside the British Isles. We found that it’s impossible to understand how Québec City got to be what it is today without learning its religious history. Not wanting to miss another church with old paintings (acquired around 1820 and saved during the French Revolution) we popped into the Ursuline Chapel at The Monastery of the Ursulines of Québec .
Coffee and nosh break at Café Smith (seven locations), nap, yoga at the monastery, and one final dinner, showcasing the best of boreal cuisine, that which is inspired by and comes from the native forests of the Northern Territories. The team at Chez Boulay-bistro boréal is certainly one of the best and one of the most delicious and interesting meals we experienced.
Day 7 | One For The Road
It wouldn’t be Québec without mouth-watering French pastry, so it was fitting that our last stop before heading to the airport was Le Croquembouche Pâtissier et Traiteur, if for no reason other than we can’t get better at home.
“Oh the weather outside is frightful,
but the fire is so delightful.
And since we’ve no place to go.
Let It Snow! Let It Snow! Let It Snow!“
Composed by Jule Styne and lyrics by Sammy Cahn, 1945.
Global Staci 