BULGARIA | Stealable 10-Day Itinerary Starting in Sofia

[This post is part one of a 10-day driving itinerary that includes Sofia, Melnik, Plovdiv, and Veliko Taranovo, which each have their own post.]

I’d never visited Bulgaria, which is usually reason enough for me to go somewhere. Before meeting my Global Builders Team in Cluj, Romania in mid-April, I decided to give myself ten days to adjust to crossing seven time zones, before arriving in the northern neighbor. Friends had traveled to Bulgaria the year before and gave me the name of their guide, whom I (and a friend) hired to help plan our trip, drive, and of course, give us the skinny on what we were seeing.

In retrospect, we wouldn’t change anything about our itinerary. If we’d had more time, we would have visited the Black Sea coast, popular on many itineraries, but perhaps the least interesting in our opinion. Additionally, we didn’t think the weather would be warm enough to warrant a dip in the sea. The great thing about our trip was that we spent two nights everywhere and three in the capital, Sofia. This turned out to be the best decision, and our driver was elated not to have to rush through the usual highlights.

[Keep your eyes open for loads of cool street art in Sofia.]

DAY 1 | SOFIA

Here’s a fun fact I would have never guessed about Bulgaria—two of the oldest cities in Europe are in Bulgaria, including its capital Sofia. It’s the place to begin your history lessons, which, if you don’t know much about Eastern European history, is quite fascinating. Historical landmarks and ancient ruins juxtaposed with modern street art can be seen throughout the country.

Originally ruled by the Thracians, the city was in turn conquered by the Romans in the 1st century BC, then the Byzantines who ruled for the next 1,000 or so years. The Ottomans took over about the 15th century AD for over 400 years. Bulgarians regained control of Sofia in the early 20th century, but, in 1941 the Kingdom of Bulgaria became a member of the Axis nations, initiating World War II. In 1944 the Red Army took over for the Soviet Union until in the 1980s, when, the Communist party had grown too weak to resist public outcry for change. In 1990, the country held its first multi-party election since 1939, voted to become the Republic of Bulgaria, and removed the Communist emblem from its national flag. Interestingly, the whole of the turmoil in the 20th century was a bloodless affair.

[PRO TIP: Perhaps one of the most interesting aspects of its political history is how Bulgarians, both young and old, feel about life in their new democracy. Ask as many people as you meet, and listen to them with an open mind and open heart, and your worldview will expand.]

Sofia is a safe and walkable city. We enjoyed strolling the main pedestrian thoroughfare, Vitosha Street, named after the mountain which you’ll see at one end. At the other end, you can see the statue of the eponymous patron saint herself. Our hotel was right off of Vitosha, an excellent location and good value, Hotel Niky.

[PRO TIP: On the same street as Hotel Niky, at Neofit Rilski St. 32, just a few doors down toward Vitosha Street is one of the coolest stone shops (crystals and gemstones, jewelry, etc.) that I’ve ever seen. Check out #SoSoulStones on Instagram.]

Sights in the city center include the St. George Rotunda, the National Theater, St. Sofia Church, and Alexander Nevsky Cathedral known as the monument of King Liberator. There’s a literal yellow brick road and oh so many open-air squares and churches. If you like looking at old churches, Bulgaria is the place for you!

A favorite from our walking tour of the city was the Synagogue of Sofia. Another little history lesson. Despite siding with Germany in both world wars, during WWII, Bulgarian leaders successfully saved their Jewish population, some 49,000 people, from being deported to concentration camps. They are the only European nation to do so.

A final fun fact, although quite subjective, Bulgarian food is delicious! This was one of my biggest surprises. Considering its proximity to both Greece and Turkey and their influence on the cuisine, I understand now why I loved it so much. You can find loads of vegetarian and even vegan options as well.

In Sofia, we recommend:

Shtastliveca (Blvd. Vitosha 27) a little tricky to spot (there is no obvious signage on the street) but ask around. It’s terrific for being on the most touristed street in the city.
The Little Things (Tsar Ivan Shishman 37)
Chevermeto (NDK-Pronoto, Blvd. Bulgaria 1) is a tourist restaurant with a folk show, but it’s popular and the food is good.
C House is great for coffee drinks
Confetti for gelato
Just about any chance you get, try banitsa, delicious Bulgarian stuffed pastries—savory and sweet.
Also lutinitza which is the Bulgarian version of ketchup; everyone has their own unique recipe.

DAY 2 | BOYANA CHURCH & NATIONAL MUSEUM OF HISTORY

A short ride outside the city center is the UNESCO World Heritage site, Boyana Church, built in the 10th century and known for its spectacular frescoes.

Wrapping up our tour of Sofia, another great surprise—The National Museum of History is now located in the building that was the former communist party residence. Outside it appears as you’d expect: an uninviting monolithic structure devoid of personality. Against the backdrop of the majestic Vitosha Mountain, it is further diminished. BUT on the inside, it lends itself quite well to displaying the many treasures that tell the story of Bulgaria .

DAY 3 | BELOGRADCHIK ROCKS & FORTRESS

If you have to tighten up your itinerary, I recommend skipping Belogradchik. Early fortifications are 2,000 years old with the yard dating to the early 1800s. It takes about three hours to drive there from Sofia, and considering the return trip, most of your time this day will be in the car. We enjoyed wandering around the fortress and climbing on the rocks and ate a delicious lunch in town at Pri Ivan (Yuri Gagarin 3).